Learning to surf 2008: attempt 1

I woke up this morning and put on my bikini and grabbed a surf board and got in the water. I didn't have as many chances to catch a wave as I hoped for because there were too many people--either poised to run me over or in my way if I were to catch a wave. I let a couple of perfect waves pass me by because I didn't realize that they were perfect until it was too late. I hopped on a couple of waves but they didn't have the force to take me anywhere. I started on a decent wave and then got tangled in the leash. Foamy waves pushed the board out of my hands and let me get more than one scratch from the skags on my legs and torso. I finally found a good spot, a good wave, and I paddled paddled paddled (which I'm learning is the key to grabbing a good wave) and I stand up--only to fall after about a second in really shallow water--where the hell is the tide? When I fell I slammed my wrist on the board, which definitely hurt at the moment. I thought no--I gotta keep at it--no giving up yet. So I tried another couple of waves in the kiddie section--and I realized that it was a wee bit painful to try to put my weight on my hands while I was getting up. So I decided to ride the board in because I wasn't in the mood to skivvy around the 50 other bathers with their boards and boogie boards. My wrist isn't visibly bruised or swollen, but it sure hurts like a mofo when I move my thumb.